Friday, 29 February 2008 |
Samu-Jussi Koski’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection for Marimekko
is a combination of Art Deco angularity and summer-breezy ruffles and
girly pleats. The styling and colourways remind us of the early 80s, but
the two main fabric designs he has used for the collection are much
older. The collection includes pieces made of the Sireeni pattern but
the star is the geometric Attica, designed in 1959 by Marimekkos’ most
prolific and famous designer, Maija Isola (1927-2001). Isola created
more than 500 fabric patterns at Marimekko from 1949 to 1987, including
the iconic Unikko, Kaivo and Lokki.
Koski’s spring collection is a soft take on stylish simplicity with
salmon, pink and black as the main colours. Feather-weight silk dresses
and tops, 100% cotton dresses and tops, and the long cotton Akemi
anorak are all perfect for urban life, which is something that inspires
Koski. He’s designed for Marimekko since spring 2005, and sites people,
old photographs, jazz, cigarette smoke and city life as the sources of
his ideas.
The large Marimekko Spring 2008 bag collection includes two gems by a
14-year Marimekko veteran, Mika Piirainen. The Horisontti carry-all
(size 54 X 47 X 18 cm) and the Ankkuri shoulder bag (35 X 30 X 11 cm)
are both made of 100% cotton canvas in another Maija Isola pattern,
Dyyni, form the 1980s. Piirainen has also produced a fashion collection
for Marimekko this spring. By Tuija Seipell
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Monday, 11 February 2008 |
Britain’s Oliver Goldsmith
has been making iconic eyewear since 1926. In 1935, it was Charles
Glodsmith who made sunglasses a must-have accessory for anyone who was,
or wanted to look like, a celebrity. There’s hardly a Hollywood movie
icon or international celebrity who hasn’t been photographed wearing
Oliver Goldsmiths. Since its 2005 re-launch, led by Oliver Goldsmith’s
great granddaughter, Claire Goldsmith, the brand has experienced a
strong revival.
Another UK native, Aseef Vaza, burst into the limited-edition luxury
handbag scene in 2004 with his collection of bags in fine Parisian
silks and dyed skins of ostrich, stingray, shark, alligator and python.
Today, there’s hardly a red-carpet event where the leading ladies
aren’t clutching a Vaza.
Now take the 1969 Oliver Goldsmith TAK sunglasses known for their
unique detailing and sexy Hollywood proportions. Give the design to
English craftsmen. Then give them some Bengal Blue vintage acetate
discovered in an abandoned Italian factory and have them recreate TAKs
by hand. Then have Vaza design a luxurious pouch in metallic
graphite-grey ostrich with a black patent trim and lined in the Vaza
trademark pink suede decorated with a hand-painted gold monogram. Only
50 sets of VazaTak sunglass and pouch sets were created. With £800, one
of them can be yours. By Tuija Seipell
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Thursday, 31 January 2008 |
According to an early 2007 interview with Fast Company Magazine, designer and native New Zealander Karen Walker declared, "I started my career at age 18 with $100 and a heap of naiveté."
Incredibly,
the fashion world didn't catch wind of the designing sensation until
1998, 8 years after starting her career, when Walker presented her
first eponymous runway line in Hong Kong.
Since then, Walker's
quirky fashions have rocketed the designer to success. She has shown
her clothing at Australia, London, and (in Fall of 2006) New York's
Fashion Weeks. There are also currently over 140 stockists of the Karen
Walker label worldwide.
Recently, Walker decided to extend her
brand beyond clothing to eyewear. In October 2005, she launched a line
of whimsical "sunnies" in Australia, New Zealand and Japan. The line
sold out in two weeks, according to The Independent of London.
Walker's
most recent shades for the 2008/09 season are marketed with the tagline
"Master of Disguise." There are 32 different offerings, all fun,
funky, and the perfect
complement to Karen Walker's carefree, wearable clothing designs.
Regardless of one's own power
issues, all fashionistas will embrace Walker's unique take on an
otherwise monotonous parade of black, over-sized "Nicole Richie"
shades. L. Harper L. Harper
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Friday, 18 January 2008 |
Annoying as it is to admit but we did not invent this device. This
hangover of a clothes rack, this marvel of a loss-prevention tool, this
clothes line with an attitude, this hallway accessory that we all — at
least in theory — could make at home. A couple of things worry us about
this potential nightmare, though. With the Christmas season still in
fresh memory, we all know how tangled up a string of anything can get.
So this could really drive you mad. And when the cab’s waiting outside,
how do you quickly grab your coat and run? By Tuija Seipell
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Wednesday, 09 January 2008 |
We're willing to bet that most of you have (or wish you had) more shoes
that you can possibly even remember. And more than likely the
floor of your closet resembles an absolute train wreck. Pinel
& Pinel, a luxury goods manufacturer out of Paris, may have the
answer for you. The design team has created a series of trunks
used primarily for stereo and office storage inspired by the golden age
of train and ocean liner travel. The most recent addition to the
collection, a sneaker storage trunk on wheels, is designed especially
for those of you who have been waiting for the perfect means of
organising – and displaying – your favourite shoes. By Andrew J Wiener
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Thursday, 20 December 2007 |
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It isn't exactly comfy and it rattles like heck, but it’s YSL so
we’ll be duly agog. The Plexiglass vests for Yves Saint Laurent
Spring/Summer 2008 collection are the handiwork of Stefano Pilati, the
man never afraid to experiment and try something new.
The 40-plus head
designer of YSL used to be Tom Ford’s right-hand man at the YSL Rive
Gauche ready-to-wear collection. He has also designed for Giorgio
Armani and Miu Miu. We hope the plexiwear is just a Pilati thing but it
appears that — and we are not yet sure we’re going to like it — big
logos are back across brands. One more thing to endure in 2008. By Tuija Seipell |
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Monday, 17 December 2007 |
If you want your hair neat and tidy and your head covered in sensible headwear, Soren Bach
is not your choice of a stylist. However, if you want to be
ahead-of-everyone-else fashion-forward for spring 2008 with wild
headgear and crazy colours then by all means get in touch with Soren
through the London-based Frank Agency.
With Soren by your side, expect to prance about in creations that will
make Cher’s wildest get-up look lame and that will draw envious glances
from even the most hat-happy Rastafarians. Tequila sunrise helmets and
ostrich feathers rule! By Tuija Seipell
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Monday, 19 November 2007 |
The latest unexpected fashion pairing comes from Finland’s 56-year-old design powerhouse, Marimekko, and the King of Shoes, Manolo Blahnik.
Blahnik Spring/Summer 2008 collection will include shoes in the
venerable Marimekko pattern Mini-Unikko (shoe on left).
Maija Isola designed the pattern in 1964 in protest to Marimekko’s
founder and mastermind Armi Ratia’s pronouncement that there will not
be floral patterns in Marimekko. Unikko not only melted Ms. Ratia’s
heart but it has become one of the most enduring and recognizable of
Marimekko patterns. The other Marimekko Blahnik shoes will be adorned
in the more graphic BonBon pattern.
Apparently, Blahnik had decided to base his latest collection on the
wonderful architectural lines he saw in Hagia Sophia, Turkey. He then
came upon some Marimekko fabrics in a little shop in Bath, England.
According to Blahnik, “the two just happened to fall perfectly into
place — as bizarre as that combination may sound.” To wear these
fusions of Turkish architecture and Finnish protest we will need to
wait until January 2008 when they will be available in Blahnik stores
in London and New York. By Tuija Seipell
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Wednesday, 07 November 2007 |
There's something tantalizing about twice-dipped
things: chocolate covered strawberries, caramel covered apples, cheese
covered popcorn...to name a few.
Little did we know, this same rule applies beyond food, to shoes. Hester Vlamings line
of two-tone, color-dipped heels, boots and slingbacks are double the
treat. The leather hues range from mustard to burnt orange to ivory to
gold - all of which are enhanced by the contrast of the dark,
ebony-embossed toe.
Though a fashion scene newbie, Vlamings is
astutely on trend with her multi-hued wares, as any fan of Yves Saint
Laurent, Miu Miu, Prada or Dolce & Gabbana can attest to. The
designer is a cobbler of the finest education, with a degree in fashion
and industrial design at the Artschool in Arnhem. Currently Vlamings'
stylings can be found in several boutiques throughout the Netherlands.
And
her shoes are not only commercial-minded. The art community has taken
notice of her artistic designs, and fashion afficianados can take in
her work in galleries and museums throughout The Netherlands, Belgium,
Germany and France. By L. Harper
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Monday, 08 October 2007 |
Though born Canadian, Patrick Cox seems to have thoroughly absorbed the British birthright of effortless punk in his designs.
Cox first defected to metropolis London at the impressionable age of 20. He then studied shoe design at Cordwainers College at Hackney in London. Two years later, Cox released his very first shoe collection in 1985.
Since then, Cox has opened several eponymous boutiques: one in London, two in Paris and one in Lyon, France. The designer released a diffusion line, "Wannabe," was awarded the British Fashion Council. "Accessory Designer of the Year" in 1994 and 1995, and has been praised in the fashion scriptures of Vogue, Glamour, Elle and Harper's Bazaar, among many others.
Cox's most recent collection for the Fall/Winter 2007 collection displays his signature pairing of cheeky and classic. The Triziana
pump features a gold weave construction that belies the funky metallic gold base, finished with a snooty turned-up-toe. Likewise, Cox' men's collection walks the fine line: "his take on the traditional brogue is remarkably restrained. His only concession to quirkiness? The metallic gold coloration underlying the toe pattern," says men.style.com.
Regardless, there's an undeniable affinity for sequins and shiny patents. In fact, Cox conceded that the current women's line was a nod
to the sparkly Garland duds of Oz fame. But spindly, delicate, Choos these are not. As Cox divulged in UK's Times, "I don't like women teetering around on little spindly stilettos. I like a more aggressive spiked heel. It's not pretty and twee." By L. Harper
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Monday, 27 August 2007 |
It's the only feasible explanation for Jason Markk's devoted following and wide online acclaim at sneaker-fanatic blogs worldwide. Of
particular note is Jason Markk's Premium Sneaker Solution, which does something truly revolutionary: it cleans your sneakers.
With a wave of a hog-hair bristle brush coated in their specially formulated magic potion, Jason Markk P.S.S. rids your kicks of the
grass stains and gook soils even your mom can't eradicate. The solution consists of natural soaps derived from coconut and jojoba
oils, a 98% natural product that is also said to be biodegradable.
In addition to Jason Markk's online store, you can find this trainers cure-all at renowned sneaker shillers: Ubiq, Kendo, NortStar and
Colette, among others.
Add this to your long list of things you didn't know you couldn't live without. By L. Harper
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Thursday, 23 August 2007 |
Fashion scholar Sophie Albou first got her stylish feet wet at France's Fashion Institute. She followed her graduation with an
appointment at Azzedine Alaia and then became a stylist for Le Garage.
In 1995 Albou launched her first menswear collection, under the name "Paul and Joe" - a shout out to her two young sons. Two years later the designer released a womenswear line under the same moniker, to critical acclaim
2007 finds Albou celebrating the tenth anniversary of her Paul and Joe womenswear line with a festive (bordering on cartoonish) collection of clothing. The billowing royal purple coat, a blouse with enormous white bell sleeves paired with dark khaki slouchy, pirate boots proudly declare Albou's standing as a "resolute anti-conformist." Even her primmer outfits - a conservatively tailored mint green coat with gold button accents comes to mind - are punctuated with loud purple, white or green stockings and patent knee-high boots.
Currently Paul and Joe offerings are available in over 30 boutiques around the globe, as well as in retail giants Barney's, Harvey Nichols and Harrod's among others. By L Harper
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Monday, 30 July 2007 |
Matthew Williamson was called “the king of bling” by the Sydney Morning Herald for a reason.
Since his London debut in 1996, one thing has remained constant: Williamson’s models will sparkle. His 2003 spring collection saw gold-sequined blouses and brocade jackets, while the fall of 2005 line had shiny velvets and satins and the fall of 2006 featured shimmering gold and silver jumpers, to name a few.
The trend continued most recently during February’s New York Fashion Week. Williamson paraded his traditional flashy jewel-hued mini minis and doll-sized dresses – but this year there was also a noticeable smattering of fashions to file under “the bigger the better.” Models processed down the runway in gaping shorts and trousers that were paper-bag-synched at the waist, as well as tent-sized sparkly muumuus and necklaces boasting fist-sized shell pendants. The most innovative of these enormous fashions could be credited to the pioneering of jewellery designer Scott Wilson.
Wilson and Williamson are both decorated alumni from the UK’s finest art institutions. Wilson studied jewellery design at Middlesex Polytechnic and millinery at the Royal College of Art while Williamson began his career at star-spangled Central St. Martins. Both designers earned coveted fashion positions early in their careers. Immediately after graduation Williamson began working for Marni, while Wilson earned employment with Karl Lagerfeld as an undergrad. Williamson eventually went on to launch his own successful eponymous line. On the other hand, Wilson has garnered much of his renown through his collaborative efforts with showstoppers Burberry, Rifat Ozbek and Hussein Chalayan in particular – though he continues to maintain his own jewellery line. As Wilson explained to the International Herald Tribune, “One-off pieces are the ultimate expression of my work, but they can be very time-consuming.”
In their collaboration, Wilson clearly embraced Williamson’s predilection for shine with his jewelled bracelets, which are evocative of bedazzled bocce balls. The enormous bangles were seen on the lanky limbs of Hilary Rochas and Maryna Linchuk during Matthew Williamson’s parade of jewel-colored frocks at New York Fashion Week in February. According to Fashion Wire Daily, Wilson’s “sequined bracelets [were] a deft accessory addition to a collection that underlined how British designers’ stint showing in America has helped him mature into a producer of highly wearable, yet always hip, clothes.”
The funky though undeniably glamorous bracelets have most recently been spotted cuffing the delicate wrists of Mischa Barton on the cover of UK Elle. The bracelets are custom-made, and available to the most audacious of luxury collectors for a mere $900 each. Contact the creator himself at (TK Scott Wilson’s email address). By L. Harper
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Tuesday, 26 June 2007 |
Consider it an antidote to the mass-produced “designer” fashions of
Target and Wal-Mart. CoLab, an eyewear accessory collaboration, hand
selects talented “street artists” from all over the world to become
CoLab professors. These wisemen of design infuse their artistic
aesthetic into the humble sunglass frame, creating a tantalizingly
unique summer accessory.
CoLab is a brand-new venture out of Sydney
with the aim of creating matchless art disguised as fashion. For the
Spring/Summer 2007 season, CoLab invited Perks and Mini (PAM) of
Australia, EBoy of Germany, Geoff McFetridge of the US, Rockin’
Jellybean of Japan, and Neasden Control Center of the UK into their
“Colaboratory” to create inspired eyewear. Each pair will be sold as a
limited edition, with no more than 1000 pairs of each design sold. Come
next season, CoLab will select an entirely different slew of artists.
Each artist has contributed anywhere from three to five designs,
culminating in a CoLab portfolio of 20 sunglass designs. Despite the
commerciality of fashioning art into sunglasses, the project is
inherently appealing to the underground artist as CoLab dictates:
“There is no constraint, no rules to follow, no target market to
appease.”
The designs intimately reflect this freedom, from blue goggle-shaped
“Eyes” frames by PAM, to decal-ridden EBoy shades, to vintage inspired
oglers by Rockin’ Jellybean.
The tragically hip lenses can be found through worldwide stockists,
most notably, Paris’s Colette, which became CoLab’s first global
stockist in January of this year.
In its distinctive pursuit, CoLab has created a brand without a brand –
a welcome respite to those beleagured by the choice: Ray-Bans or
absurdly-priced “designer” shades. By L. Harper
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Wednesday, 20 June 2007 |
Emma Hope has
come a long way from the overbearing florals of Laura Ashley fashions.
After designing and manufacturing six collections with the company,
Hope jetted on to bigger and better things - namely, her eccentric Emma
Hope collection.
Since the commencement of her designing efforts, Hope has garnered five
Design Council Awards, the Martini Style Award, and the Harpers &
Queen Design Award. Hope's eponymous collection began solely with shoes
- footwear could be considered Hope's forte, she's designed shoes for
Paul Smith, Anna Sui and Mulberry. Hope later expanded her offerings to
include handbags with quirky creations like a henna suede tote bag with
delicate floral silhouettes carved out of its base, or a pair of men's
white leopard print sneakers fashioned from ponyskin .
The designer's most eye-catching number is easily a velvet sneaker bag
which offered in bright hues of violet, gold and fuchsia, among others.
The unlikely juxtaposition of luxurious velvet to hold your sweaty
workout ensembles seems a perfect fit for the celebs who emerge
daintily coiffed - with nary a bead of sweat - after hours-long
training sessions. And for the obsessively coordinated amongst us, Hope
even offers matching "Magic Basket" sneakers, which are swathed in the
same unlikely shades of velvet. These indulgent workout fashions are
available at either of Emma Hope's three shops in London (Sloane
Square, Westbourne Grove and Islington) as well as 150 additional
stores, including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. By Harper Walsh
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Thursday, 15 March 2007 |
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They were the talk of Balenciaga's Fall 07
showings recently - the new "IT" shoe that is a clear derivative of the
classic Balenciaga style, but appears to have been "built" by a small
child in Denmark. How does one wear such a must-have accessory? With
grey woollen tights or jodhpurs, apparently. Sarah W
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Friday, 09 March 2007 |
We’re rather liking what this French veteran of the fashion scene is sending down runways this year. It’s actually Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s
fortieth year of doing so – give or take. But his particular brand of
pop-tastic sportswear festooned with Tweety birds, Snoopys and hearts –
splashed with fluorescent tomato - has struck chords with the British
Grime scene elite. As he says, “The kids are calling me JC/DC now”. For
those interested to know, the JC rose to fame in the seventies when he
designed for Farrah Fawcett at the height of her Charlie’s Angels fame
and made the massive inflatable poncho coat of teddybears worn by
Madonna in the film Prêt -a-Porter. Also interesting: their very cute
website with it’s youtubed Kittyfornia character. Check it out. By Sarah W
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Tuesday, 13 February 2007 |
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fashion hipsters, Colette are celebrating their 10th anniversary by
collaborating with fellow French label Lacoste for their new spring
range. Combining the Lacoste croc and Colette pooches Caperino
and Peperone, the collection features limited-edition trainers and a
series of 14 polo shirts. ìTo see our dear Caperino and
Peperone play with the big brands is one of our little personal
pleasures,î said Colette art director Sarah Lerfel. The trainers
feature two different designs, one with Cap & Pep chasing the
crocodile on one foot, and the croc chasing Cap & Pep on the
other. The inside lining and laces feature a specially printed
logo, ëCaperino & Peperone Love Lacosteí.
The Lacoste polo range features 14 different designs each telling a
small part of a bigger story of how the crocodile and the dogs
met. Leaving its iconic position on top of the heart, the
crocodile walks around your shirt, and depending on what polo you buy,
he could be sitting on your shoulder or tucked under the collar.
Itís fun, fresh and doesnít take itself too seriously. Maybe
other brands might want to take note. The polos will cost you 140 euros
and the trainers 120. So, what are you waiting for? By Matthew
Hussey
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